Isabella Torelli and Seresina Olivia d'Hiverno on the Main Stage
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References, sketches, swatches. . .
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Possible Trims
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Solving a design problem: The corset curves in at the waist, the bodice cannot. Fill in with quilting and stiffen with boning?
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Testing the quilting and boning idea on the mannequin. (This is a red drill interlining for stability.) Note the paper pattern for a possible sleeve treatment at the shoulder. (This hasn't been done yet.)
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Taking a look at the fashion fabric on the mannequin. Nice, centered design.
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A quilted, canvassed and boned piece is inserted between the interlining (the red drill) and the silk dupioni lining. This served to fill in the space created by the corset narrowing at the waist. The corset now serves not as to shape the garment so much as to take the considerable weight of the dress and redistribute it. This actually made the dress quite comfortable.
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Meanwhile, Linda is cartridge pleating the skirt onto a shaped waistband, which we planned to fit under the bodice and attach with hooks and eyes. Unfortunately, this did not work, and we are still not certain why. The waistband ended up sitting too high and the whole thing had to be torn out and re-done. We decided to attach the skirt to the bodice for now.
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The interior of the bodice, with the quilted, boned and padded section hidden between the layers. This was sewn decoratively with red silk thread, using one of the "fancy" stitches on the Babylock machine. I also used it extensively on the corset and will probably use it on the camicia. It has been nicknamed the "Jwlhyque." |
The new fashion fabric. Beautiful find!
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